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Transmission Cooler Kit Installation

We have dash mounted and labeled switches for "trans pump" our drivers are all disciplined to turn the pumps on as soon as the car starts rolling and turn of when the car is back in the paddock.

We include a high quality, vibration resistant switch and watertight boot. Locate the switch anywhere its convenient. Ours are located (see photo) on the center dash carbon panel. We have these carbon fiber panels (radio/nav block off plate) available separately.

We use the high amp 12v circuit located in the same area that feeds the power hungry Bose sound systems as our power source. Route the wiring neatly in a plastic tube or wire loom material along the center tunnel and around the engine capsule. We split the power at that point to feed the fan, located just in front of the left rear tail lamp. We use the ecu ground lug to ground both the fan and the pump. There is a small rubber body plug on the right frame rail, just below the oil filler compartment. Use a snake and a pair of grommets to run the pump feed thru the frame rail and out right next to the pump. Note the mounting location of the pump, use the vibration isolators also included. Note the fluid flow directional arrow on top of the pump, the inlet is the side you put the 90 degree fitting on. The side with the straight 3/8"NPT fitting to -8 goes to the cooler (see photos)

Remove the tail lamps and rear bumper cover. Bolt the cooler bracket supplied in the kit to the cooler. Then fit two of the same rubber dampers as used to mount the pump and drill the plastic rear fender skirt to mount the cooler. Check out the routing of the hoses and the 1.75" heat tubing to isolate the hoses where they cross over the left exhaust pipe.

Now the most labor intensive part, don't attempt this at home. We remove the entire trans axle, for more reasons than just the tail housing modification; we do the differential and motor mount conversions at the same time, so it makes labor sense. We have been tempted to try to "dip" the rear of the trans down, drain the fluid and attempt to remove the tail housing while the trans is still attached to the engine. We have not tried, so if somebody does and it works let us know.

Set the trans on the bell housing flange and remove the two gear selector cluster mount bolts, they have lock-tite on them and this needs to be reapplied. The remove the neutral/reverse pivot bolt, also lock tited. Then remove all of the Torx bolts that hold the rear housing to the front case, take the shift linkage off the shift cable "momentum" disc. Lightly tap with a brass or dead blow hammer, remove the housing with the momentum weight left on it. Clean this housing with solvent and hot soap, clean it inside and out and put it in a well insulated box. Send it to our shop and I will either exchange the housing for one of mine or weld a bung into yours. Same cost, just quicker turn around as we may be away racing. Use a good non hardening flange sealant. Now is a good time to remove the magnet located in a small space right at the case split. Clean all the muck off it and return it to its original position. Now you have changed the oil and the filter. Protect the threads and the bevel on the new -8 fitting from damage. Reinstall the trans.

The oil goes from the bottom of the rear case thru the pump thru the cooler and returns via the drain plug directly under the differential. Take the fill plug out, hook a short section of hose to the pump inlet side and place it in a container of 80/90 Redline NS gear oil, turn the pump on and wait for the fresh gear oil to start coming out the fill hole. Reattach the suction side; tighten the fill plug and your ready to go.